That would be Michael Pollan[0]

[0] http://www.amazon.com/In-Defense-Food-Eaters-Manifesto/dp/01...

This is one reason I find Michael Pollan's work so interesting, like "Unhappy Meals": http://www.nytimes.com/2007/01/28/magazine/28nutritionism.t.... (advice: "Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.") and In Defense of Food: http://www.amazon.com/Defense-Food-Eaters-Manifesto/dp/01431... .

His basic point is that "food science" doesn't know very much, is heavily politicized, and that we don't really know on a deep level how food, food-like substances, supplements, and so forth work. The war on "fat," as you note, doesn't make much sense because it counts the "fat" from a Big Mac and the "fat" from almonds the same way, which makes little sense. It counts the "sugar" from strawberries and Pepsi the same way. This is, to put it lightly, stupid, and it makes people stupid, since most people hear marketing slogans or public service announcements or whatever and follow those.

"Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants." - Michael Pollan

http://www.amazon.com/Defense-Food-Eaters-Manifesto/dp/15942...

Liar's Poker - Michael Lewis http://www.amazon.com/Liars-Poker-Rising-Through-Wreckage/dp...

In Defense of Food - Michael Pollan http://www.amazon.com/Defense-Food-Eaters-Manifesto/dp/01431...

When Genius Failed: The Rise and Fall of Long-Term Capital Management - Roger Lowenstein http://www.amazon.com/When-Genius-Failed-Long-Term-Managemen...

He's expanded that article into a book: http://www.amazon.com/Defense-Food-Eaters-Manifesto/dp/15942...

In it, there's a great heuristic for walking out of your local supermarket carrying food (as opposed to processed "edible foodlike substances"): shop near the edges.